Photoshoot!

585 Buttons Later....!!!!

Sewing the Text On The Back!!!!

The Pearly Kings and Queens always sew buttons onto the back of the jacket which often describes what sort of Pearly they are and where they are from. During my time with the Pearlys I asked them questions about their costumes including whether they used a technique when sewing the buttons onto the costume. I thought maybe by using a sewing machine or something, Anything to make their lives quicker and easier. It was explained that the sewing machine can't be used because it got caught up in the creasing of the jacket and the button itself so everything had to be done by hand. They wanted to stick with old tradition of creating the costume so it didn't seem to matter anyway. However, they did happen to mention something about templates, saying that they have often cut out a template to sew over. This helps make the text appear more evenly in a straight line than if it was done without one at all. They said that you can never achieve a completely straight line because of the shape, cut and stitching of the jacket but a template helps to tackle this issue.

So I have decided to apply these tips to my own design by creating individual templates as a guide before sewing each button onto them. I decided I would write "Pearly King" otherwise it would take up far too many buttons. After drawing each letter out individually I pinned them onto the back before sewing each button within the guide. It was really important to choose the correct type of button, As the letter forms had to be defined enough so the text could be read easily. The smaller buttons were best for this job as the larger ones. After the letter was sewn onto it the template was torn away revealing the completed letter. It turned out to be the most difficult part of the jacket to sew as I was sewing within the center of the jacket, therefore the jacket would crease or the lining would be sewn into the jacket itself. At times the thread would snap and so I had to start all over again. However, After the first several letters it became easier as you worked across the jacket and you had more space to sew.

The template is cut out and placed on the jacket.

The buttons are sewn onto the template.

Then the template is removed to reveal each letter.

More Buttons Needed!!!

I had to take a trip back to Taylor's buttons again today because I have run out of buttons. When I bought my first 250 I thought that would be more than enough, However once you start sewing them onto the jacket you start to realize that this was not going to be enough. After all, When you think that the average Pearly jacket has over a thousand buttons you begin to realize how many buttons it takes to make up such an intricate design. The mother of pearly buttons aren't that cheap either so its going to be really expensive If I continue these trips. I could spend a fortune so I'm going to buy another 250 buttons, of the same type, and then start to sew these on. When I start to sew the lettering onto the back of the jacket I think the buttons will go fast as this is going to use up loads, as it covers one of the largest areas, Ill probably need at least another 250 buttons for that alone, i suppose it depends what size I want going to use.

I think I need to make a decision as too how many buttons I am actually going to sew on otherwise I could just go on forever.My aim is to sew over 500 buttons in total, depending on my original design . When considering that most Pearly Kings and Queens add on their buttons throughout the course of their lives, I'm trying to complete a whole jacket in only a week.

At first buttons were sewn around the edging of the jacket, Starting with the front and moving downwards towards the pockets before pattern and detail were added.

The Sewing Begins!!!!

I went to Taylor's buttons and got my first 250 Mother of Pearl buttons to start with. I decided to buy a variety of each, 100 large and 150 small so that when I start to add pattern these details will may add interest, instead of it being one type of button. When referring back to the photo's of the Pearly's, they never seem to use them same type of button within their designs. The buttons aren't cheap either! but I don't want to compensate for tacky machine buttons because it wouldn't be the real thing. So I have decided that 600 buttons will be most I will place on the jacket, creating a skeleton jacket.

So the sewing begins! The Pearlys had previously explained that the best way to start a jacket is to work with its outline . Slowly sewing each button on the jackets seams and lapels before working inwards, and adding more detail over time. I have started off with placing the buttons on the garment to make sure that I knew what buttons I wanted to sew and where. I have then started at the top lapel and worked downwards around the outline and towards the pocket flaps on either side.

The jacket material is easy to work with but the hardest part is losing direction, Even though i have used templates to help me you have still have to concentrate that you don't stitch the lining of the jacket as well as the button, otherwise it ends up in a tangled mess. Its also hard to see if you are sewing the button in line with the previous one. The amount of times I have had to start again is really frustrating. I am pleased with how the jacket is coming along, finding the contrast between the white button on the black jacket is looking really effective. Most of all, After just stitching these few buttons I am beginning to get a real appreciation for the workmanship that goes into producing a collection of something so detailed. I am starting to gain a small insight into the workmanship when creating one of these jackets for this project.

Still to do:
More Edging, Seams and lapels...front and back!!!!
Left hand pocket with detailing.
Cuffs Edging
Writing on the back.

A Proposel For My Final Outcome.

After spending time with the Pearly Kings and Queens I feel that I have started to learn about the traditions of being a Pearly, Why they do the work they do and what the future holds for the society. I admire at their costumes, The detailing in its design and the pattern work that makes each one distinct from another. It seemed that the costume was a time piece, something that represented their efforts of collecting these Mother of Peal buttons to add to the designs throughout the years. Therefore, I have decided to try and design and create a Pearly jacket by taking what I have discovered and applying it to my own design. This is going to be a real challenge, especially trying to crate and finish a design in such a short time that would otherwise take many years to complete....at least I know where to get the Mother of Pearl Buttons from, Looks like another trip to Taylor's Buttons and Belts is next.

That's The Cockney Spirit!

The Pearly Kings and Queens are such fantastic characters and are always up for a laugh- They are all up for a good old sing song anytime anywhere. I wanted to catch this on film as I hoped this would help reflect the the character of the Pearly Kings and Queens. They know all the old Londoner songs which were sung in the festival halls during the Nineteenth Century. These songs, originally written and sang by true cockney's, were often about Love, life, and Charity....The true cockney spirit!

A Smother or Skeleton Suit.

The Pearly Kings and Queens wear their suits with pride with the place from where they are from across the back of the jacket. There are two suits known as a Smother Suit, Which is covered in Mother of Pearl buttons, or a Skeleton, One where the outline of the jacket is emphasized. The number of buttons on a suit can vary and depends on the wearer, whom add more buttons to the collection over time. This is often the case where the younger generation of the Pearly's tend to have less buttons on their jackets in comparison to the older generation of Pearlys. I think Arthur's jacket was the heaviest there with about 18500 buttons!!!! Weighing in at 22lbs, an example of a smother suit. I couldn't quite believe how many buttons were sewed onto these jackets, It must have taken ages! I asked them how they maintained their jackets, like washing them etc and they said the only way is the use a wet sponge and make the odd repair when they have time. I also asked them if the symbols used on their pearly coats jackets had a meaning. They said that each symbol had a meaning, often encompassing the Pearly philosophy, symbols which made them stand out. I asked them if there were any kind of technique they use to create the patterns and the only way possible would be to create a template and place the buttons over it, often experimenting with new patterns, some more intricate than others. Here are the meaning of the symbols found on the Pearly Suit:

• Horseshoe = Luck
• Doves = Peace
• Heart = Charity
• Anchor = Hope
• Cross = Faith
• Wheel = Circle of Life
• Symbols of Playing Cards = Life is a gamble
• Flower Pots = Costermongers
• Donkey Carts = Costermongers

A Weekend With The Pearly's!!!!

The search begins....

The search is on to get in contact with the Pearly King's and Queens....In order to make the collaboration a successful one the best thing would be to get in contact with one of them and maybe arrange a home visit or maybe go to one of their meetings when they are all wearing their costumes. This would be great as it would allow me to interview them whilst document my visit by asking them questions, filming an interview and taking photographs which I could develop further according to what I discover. This would be the best possible ways of getting to know them , the tradition of collecting Mother of Pearl Buttons to make their costumes and the work they do in collecting money for charitable organizations.

So I decided to visit the official site of the Pearly society in order to find some numbers or an email address that may help me contact a Pearly and continue my search to find a true traditional early family that I could interview. Luckily, I managed to find a phone number for one of the founders of the Pearly Society, Known as Carole Jolly. I managed to get hold of Carole and asked a few questions. Apparently the Pearly Kings and Queens are out in Covent Garden every third weekend of every month, Which happens to be this weekend. It think its time to meet the Pearly Kings and Queens of London. I really want to make the most out of this chance meeting by asking them questions, taking photographing and using film.

Link: www.pearlysociety.com

The Pearly Commandments.

Outside the Church of St Martin-in the Fields, Covent Garden.

I came across this on the web, The Pearly Kings and Queens must take their commitment very seriously by setting up "The Nine Commandments", Here they are:

• Thou shalt promote The Guild and the Pearly heritage and be fully familiar with our history.

• Thou shalt respect fellow Brother and Sister Pearlies and be faithful to The Guild.

• Thou shalt respect our honorable tradition and not misuse Pearly cloth for personal financial gain.

• Thou shalt try to attend all events for the good of The Guild (so get on ya plates of meat down the frog ‘n’ toad)

• Thou shalt try to attend all General Meetings (unless you’ve got a bloody good reason not to)

• Thou shalt hold his or her opinion with regard to public affairs whilst in Pearls and not bring disgrace to fellow Pearlies. (So don’t get Brahms and Liszt)

• Thou shalt always be fully dressed in your Pearly whistle & flute and badge of honor at official events. (So leave ya dicky dirt & Peckham Rye at home)

• Thou shalt help fellow Brothers and Sisters in times of ill health or any other problems and support each other at all times.

• Thou shalt always show in your public work in Pearls the cheerful Cockney spirit and adhere to the doctrine that Pearlies spell charity L.O.V.E.

Pearly King's and Queens attending the Harvest Festival.

The Pearly's: 125 Years of Tradition.

The founder was Henry Croft.

A Victorian Pearly Queen.

Pearly Queen's Collecting for Charity.

I have started to research into the history of the Pearly King's and Queens in order to gain an understanding into the origin of this tradition and whether it has evolved throughout 125 years of its existence. I thought the best place to start would be by browsing the web and I was pleased to discover that many sites exist, all helping to keep the tradition of what it means to be a true Pearly King or Queen in London. I discovered that the tradition hasn't actually changed since its origin started by Henry Croft in 1875 . Here are some facts that I found:

• The tradition of the Pearly Kings and Queens began in 1875 by Henry Croft.

• Henry Croft swept the market streets and started to collect all the pearl buttons he found that had fallen off the clothes of people visiting the market.

• He started to sew the buttons on his cap and then continued until his entire suit was filled which is now called a “smother suit”.

• This is still carried on by descendants of original Pearly Families, that the Kings do all the designs and sewing.

• The bold shiny costumes were developed from the instinct to attract attention and raise money for genuine and worthwhile causes and charities.

• There are two types of suit - a Smother Suit and a Skeleton Suit, the former having very little cloth showing and totally covered in buttons, and the latter having far fewer buttons.

Today, The Pearly Kings and Queens collect for a variety of charities, often raising thousands of pounds. The tradition of collecting and sewing the Mother of Pearl button continues whereby most families choose or make up the pattern they wish to use. Each family chooses between creating either a Smother Suit, A suit completely covered in buttons, or a Skeleton, One which is just outlined in patterns with some small pattern. The suits often become smothered over the course of time as the buttons are collected and sewed on throughout the years.

A Pearly Family Today.

In terms of the direction of this project, I think one of the best ways of really getting to know the true tradition of the Pearly Kings and Queens would be to get in contact with a true Pearly. If I can get in contact with anyone of them I would like to document my visit through film and photography.