Photoshoot!

585 Buttons Later....!!!!

Sewing the Text On The Back!!!!

The Pearly Kings and Queens always sew buttons onto the back of the jacket which often describes what sort of Pearly they are and where they are from. During my time with the Pearlys I asked them questions about their costumes including whether they used a technique when sewing the buttons onto the costume. I thought maybe by using a sewing machine or something, Anything to make their lives quicker and easier. It was explained that the sewing machine can't be used because it got caught up in the creasing of the jacket and the button itself so everything had to be done by hand. They wanted to stick with old tradition of creating the costume so it didn't seem to matter anyway. However, they did happen to mention something about templates, saying that they have often cut out a template to sew over. This helps make the text appear more evenly in a straight line than if it was done without one at all. They said that you can never achieve a completely straight line because of the shape, cut and stitching of the jacket but a template helps to tackle this issue.

So I have decided to apply these tips to my own design by creating individual templates as a guide before sewing each button onto them. I decided I would write "Pearly King" otherwise it would take up far too many buttons. After drawing each letter out individually I pinned them onto the back before sewing each button within the guide. It was really important to choose the correct type of button, As the letter forms had to be defined enough so the text could be read easily. The smaller buttons were best for this job as the larger ones. After the letter was sewn onto it the template was torn away revealing the completed letter. It turned out to be the most difficult part of the jacket to sew as I was sewing within the center of the jacket, therefore the jacket would crease or the lining would be sewn into the jacket itself. At times the thread would snap and so I had to start all over again. However, After the first several letters it became easier as you worked across the jacket and you had more space to sew.

The template is cut out and placed on the jacket.

The buttons are sewn onto the template.

Then the template is removed to reveal each letter.

More Buttons Needed!!!

I had to take a trip back to Taylor's buttons again today because I have run out of buttons. When I bought my first 250 I thought that would be more than enough, However once you start sewing them onto the jacket you start to realize that this was not going to be enough. After all, When you think that the average Pearly jacket has over a thousand buttons you begin to realize how many buttons it takes to make up such an intricate design. The mother of pearly buttons aren't that cheap either so its going to be really expensive If I continue these trips. I could spend a fortune so I'm going to buy another 250 buttons, of the same type, and then start to sew these on. When I start to sew the lettering onto the back of the jacket I think the buttons will go fast as this is going to use up loads, as it covers one of the largest areas, Ill probably need at least another 250 buttons for that alone, i suppose it depends what size I want going to use.

I think I need to make a decision as too how many buttons I am actually going to sew on otherwise I could just go on forever.My aim is to sew over 500 buttons in total, depending on my original design . When considering that most Pearly Kings and Queens add on their buttons throughout the course of their lives, I'm trying to complete a whole jacket in only a week.

At first buttons were sewn around the edging of the jacket, Starting with the front and moving downwards towards the pockets before pattern and detail were added.

The Sewing Begins!!!!

I went to Taylor's buttons and got my first 250 Mother of Pearl buttons to start with. I decided to buy a variety of each, 100 large and 150 small so that when I start to add pattern these details will may add interest, instead of it being one type of button. When referring back to the photo's of the Pearly's, they never seem to use them same type of button within their designs. The buttons aren't cheap either! but I don't want to compensate for tacky machine buttons because it wouldn't be the real thing. So I have decided that 600 buttons will be most I will place on the jacket, creating a skeleton jacket.

So the sewing begins! The Pearlys had previously explained that the best way to start a jacket is to work with its outline . Slowly sewing each button on the jackets seams and lapels before working inwards, and adding more detail over time. I have started off with placing the buttons on the garment to make sure that I knew what buttons I wanted to sew and where. I have then started at the top lapel and worked downwards around the outline and towards the pocket flaps on either side.

The jacket material is easy to work with but the hardest part is losing direction, Even though i have used templates to help me you have still have to concentrate that you don't stitch the lining of the jacket as well as the button, otherwise it ends up in a tangled mess. Its also hard to see if you are sewing the button in line with the previous one. The amount of times I have had to start again is really frustrating. I am pleased with how the jacket is coming along, finding the contrast between the white button on the black jacket is looking really effective. Most of all, After just stitching these few buttons I am beginning to get a real appreciation for the workmanship that goes into producing a collection of something so detailed. I am starting to gain a small insight into the workmanship when creating one of these jackets for this project.

Still to do:
More Edging, Seams and lapels...front and back!!!!
Left hand pocket with detailing.
Cuffs Edging
Writing on the back.